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درباره این کتاب:
The
Bestselling Classic Updated for Surfers,
Sailors, Oceanographers, Climate
Activists, and Those Who Love the Sea
First published in 1963 and updated in
1979, this classic was an essential
handbook for anyone who studies, surfs,
protects, or is fascinated by the ocean.
The original author, Willard Bascom, was
a master of the subject and included a
wealth of information, based on theory
and statistics, but also anecdotal
observation and personal experience. It
brought to the general public
understanding of the awesome and complex
power of the waves.
This revision from Kim McCoy adds recent
facts and anecdotes to update the book's
relevance in the time of climate change.
One of the most significant effects of
global warming will be sea-level rise.
What will this mean to waves and
beaches, and what effects are we already
seeing? New text and photos cover events
such as the Indian Ocean tsunami of
2004, Hurricane Katrina flooding of
2005, and the 2011 earthquake and
resulting devastation in Fukishima.
As well as students, surfers, and the
general public, this updated edition of
a beloved classic is an essential
handbook for climate scientists and
ocean activists, providing clear
explanations and detailed resources for
the constant battle to preserve the
shore...
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